Відео

Hi @ladjkaoz - Correct, Bona does not recommend the use of Bona ClassicSeal over any stain. Not that you could expect total failure, but we always recommend Best Practices and ClassicSeal doesn't exhibit the best adhesion characteristics over solvent-based stains. Hope that helps confirm any questions you had about that. IntenseSeal is usually our go-to for "popping" the chosen stain color and ensure excellent adhesion characteristics!

Best of luck with your project, Jeff! Happy to hear that these videos were useful for you too! Cheers!

Hi @psjw7828 - We think you'll love it; especially for woodworking projects where the ultimate durability of Traffic HD might not be needed. The convenience of no mixing, no pot life, and no waste will also be big pluses for your work. Cheers!

Hi @jockringer6437 - Yep, excellent product for its target audience. Glad you like it and Thanks for your business!

Hi @ProvingMyDispute - Two reasons for abrasion: 1) For smoothness (if debris or dust gets in coat), then use 180-240 grit Nets or Diamonds on a Conditioning Pad to smooth; and or 2) For adhesion - but ONLY if more than 48 hours has passed since the last coat was applied. Simply hit it with a 320grit Conditional Pad to ensure good adhesion and you're good to go. Hope that clears it all up. Cheers!

Yep, we did!

Hi @mickael486 - It all depends on who the manufacturer is; where the product was made; and what components went into its production. Do your research. Same goes for engineered wood flooring. Just because real wood is in the top layer doesn't guarantee that the adhesives and resins used in the production might not gas off after it's in your house. Hope that helps a bit!

Hi @CristianRaulRedruello - Thanks for the feedback. Regardless of the chosen applicator, we teach to always use "finger tip" pressure and let the tool do the work (and actually "calculate" your sq/ft or meters per gallon/litre once in a while to ensure you and your team are getting enough product on the floor). And, yes, when people start applying different amounts of pressure it obviously changes the application rates throughout the floor. We appreciate you watching our videos (and using Bona products in your business) and happy to see that they're beneficial for you. Cheers!

Hi @nicklindseth841 - Bona Traffic GO is available in Extra Matte (9-13% on 60deg meter), which isn't quite as low in sheen as Traffic RAW (4-6%), but more on the level with Traffic HD Extra Matte (7-10%). Hope that helps answer your question.

Hi @farhannafiwissofa8489 - Here's a link where you can put in your province to see the Bona Training schedule and to see your local Bona representatives. Feel free to reach out to them to ask about more local training opportunities for you. Cheers! www.bona.com/en-us/professional/training/

Hi @yautjadaslayer - You might be right. A floor finished with Traffic HD RAW may actually be flatter than the raw wood sanded to 150 grit, depending on what machine(s) and abrasives were used to finalize the floor. A fast spinning machine, say over 1,000rpms (i.e. Lagler Trio) might "burnish" that surface with the 150-grit paper so much that it actually has a bit of shine - maybe 15-20% on a gloss meter (equal to Traffic HD Commercial Satin). So, yes, Traffic HD RAW is a very flat finish which gives a very interesting and pleasingly soft appearance to the floor - while offering Traffic type protection and durability! Cheers!

Hi @yautjadaslayer - Sorry that you experienced some issues with your Bona Power Drive, but happy that you got it figured out and haven't had any issues since (knock on wood)!

Hi @themastercyliner6545 - Hmmmm, that's a good idea. We'll have to look into a possible "personalized" version of the wheel covers. Thanks for watching and for voicing your idea! Cheers!

Hi @gletondasilva6587 - Yes, on most prefinished floors you could use either the Bona Recoat System or the Bona Prep and Recoat system to renew the finish on those surfaces. Two big issues to watch for are: 1) Is the prefinished "finish" compatible with a recoat (as some can't be coated with anything (peeling); and or 2) Is the floor contaminated with any aftermarket polishes, waxes, overspray from above, etc. that may cause issues with a recoat. Answer those two questions with positive answers or solutions to remove contamination, etc, and you're on your way to a successful recoat. Hope that helps!

Hmmm, you did?!? If you're a professional and understand the industry, you'd realize that there's a ton of useful information exchanged when just chatting. Thanks for watching!

Hi @sandybilinski9799 - Unfortunately, no. Bona finished products are only available through professional hardwood flooring distributors. Here's the locator: www.bona.com/en-us/professional/find-a-distributor/

Hi @KingoftheJiangl - No, it's actually quite dangerous. Do your own research to keep yourself and your customers safe.

Hi @chadmckillop3880 - There's no need to polish (either manually or by a separate product application) Bona Traffic HD after it has cured. Here's a link to our webpage, showing the best ways to care for your Bona finished floor. Hope this helps! www.bona.com/en-us/homeowner/how-to/

Hi @stephentresca3536 - Most likely because of the particular kind of red oak to which you applied the Red Out. Our results after applying Part 1 on red oak will typically include darker greens, browns, and some black; as the Part 1 is reacting with the tannins in the wood, to bring them out - so what you experienced would be considered normal. When Part 2 is then applied, it should reverse this color change by neutralizing those tannin reactions. What did you see or experience upon applying the Part 2 while Part 1 was still damp, according to the directions?

Hi @tarbasik1 - Yes, it would absolutely be appropriate to apply a sealer over DriFast Stain to achieve additional color or depth perspectives to your finishing system. Because DriFast Stain serves as both a coloration product and seals the floor too, it's not necessary to apply a separate sealer on top of the stain prior to applying your finish coats, but you certainly can if that's what you desire. Applying Bona NaturalSeal and or NordicSeal on top of DriFast Stain, to achieve a whiter and or slightly washed out look, is a very common practice amongst professionals. Another common usage is applying IntenseSeal over the stain to "pop" any of the brown-tone stains and provide more depth to the system with a bit less expense than doing so with a full grade finish. Hope that helps answer your question!

Hi @nickname5103 - Any waterborne product being applied to the top of raw wood will have a tendency to raise the grain, which can be reduced with proper preparation of the wood surface - and or smoothed back out after the fact, prior to applying your finish coats. If unstained, it helps to burnish the wood to 120 or even 150 grit to reduce the amount of water that will penetrate the surface. Also, cleaning the sanded surface with a Tampico Brush and dust containment vacuum will reduce or eliminate the super-fine dust stuck down in the soft grain which is where the vast majority of grain raise originates from; and, of course, dry tacking to remove any remaining dust prior to sealer application. If, however, you still get some grain raise, we'll usually apply at least two coats of sealer (or 1 sealer and 1 finish) and then abrade the floor for smoothness with a dust containment buffer system, using 2-3 Bona Nets (150 to 220 grit) or Bona Diamonds (180 to 240 grit) mounted on a Bona Conditioning to smooth the grain raise down. Then vacuum and or wet tack to remove any residual dust prior to applying your finial finish coat(s). Hope the helps to answer your question! Cheers!

Hi @Jesters_Thorny_Crown - Bona Red Out is probably not a product that you'll want to use on veneer, as the Red Out process can introduce a lot of moisture to the wood surface and would likely result in the veneer swelling and possibly delaminating.

Hi @tarbasik1 - Since a roller application applies a heavier coat of sealer/finish than a t-bar, you're probably "less" likely to have bubbles remain in the coats. The biggest key for working with quick drying products in low humidity environments is to shut off all the air flow (and reduce the air temperature, if needed) to help the open-time of the products while they flow, level, and defoam. We're based in Denver, Colorado, which can be a very low humidity, high-temp application, but we typically don't run into any issues with bubbles if we take those two precautions. You can also add one bottle of Bona Retarder to each gallon of waterborne sealer/finish that you're using to help increase the open times as well. Hope that helps you achieve some successful coats! www.bona.com/en-us/products/professional/coatings/waterborne-finishes/retarder-us-esen-12x5.4oz/

Hi @nickname5103 - Typically, solvent-based wood floor stains will not raise the grain, while waterborne dyes and or coloration systems will have a tendency to raise the grain. The main reason not to sand away the grain raise from a waterborne system right away (prior to sealer application) is that you'll also remove some of the stain/dye color when removing the grain raise. So, we'll always apply a couple coats of sealer and then smooth the grain raise off the top of those prior to finish application to preserve the color but still give us a smooth final surface. Hope that helps!

Hi @today7518 - As long as the particular stain that you're using functions as a stain/sealer, then no separate sealer is required prior to Bona Traffic HD Raw being applied to the floor. However, we'll usually apply one coat of Bona IntenseSeal over a stained floor to both "pop" the color and to provide a less expensive build layer, before applying two coats of our chosen Bona finish. You want to have a minimum finish build of 3mils for proper protection, and sometimes just two coats of finish directly over stain will leave the floor looking a bit "thirsty" - like it needs another coat of finish. So, we solve that potential issue by always applying a coat of Bona waterborne sealer over stain before the required two coats of finish. Hope that answers your question - and Thanks for watching!

@@BonaProfessional Think you just answer same question on another video. I used Bona Clear Sealer over Duraseal lighter stains. Used three coats of Bona Traffic RAW. Used 12" T-bar to apply both products. Super happy with both products, and RAW was mind-blowing. Total fan of using Sealer over stain, and prior to finish for variety of reasons. Amazing to use, and watch dry. It looks perfect. Debated about using Traffic HD Satin, Raw, or another oil brand. At moment very happy with RAW, and will see how it holds up over time. Again, RAW was incredible to work with and looks stunning.

Hi @TriHuynhC - To comply with current U.S. electrical codes, the Bona Power Station Plus had to be produced with a 4-wire input. If you've only got a 3-sire power source, one option is to take a 4-wire female plug and wire your two hots on the side terminals and the ground wire into the ground (L-shaped prong) terminal, leaving the bottom (neutral terminal without a wire). When set up like this, the Power Station will still supply power thru the 3-wire output to your sanding machine, but the 110v outlet on the front of the Power Station will not receive power. Hope that helps when you run into these types of power sources on your job sites!

Yes! Thank you!

How soon people forget!

Sorry to hear that you're already suffering some reactions.

Hi @johnventura2977 - If you mean your Bona FlexiSand buffer, then yes, it's only one speed from the central shaft but the heads of the drivers you can attach will spin at different speeds. Standard 16" round drive plate will spin at roughly 175rpm's, while each 5" disc on the Bona MultiDisc spin at around 440rpm's, giving you a different finish using the same abrasives. Let us know if you have any questions in particular relating the speed of your buffer plates and the application of Bona Chroma. Thanks!

@@BonaProfessional Thank You!

Hi @SHOzFST - Bona Mega ONE cannot be applied directly to the wood floor, as a stain/sealer and or straight sealer should be applied prior to coating with 2 coats of waterborne finish. Hope that helps! Cheers!

Hi @kdc3 - On a properly prepared floor you can expect to get a coverage rate of 600-700 sq/ft per gallon. Here's a link to our website where you can get all the info you need on the Bona Chroma Coloration System (along with the 18 videos we've created on our UA-cam Pro channel) - hope this helps! www.bona.com/en-us/products/professional/coatings/waterborne-wood-floor-coloration-us/bona-chroma---americano-ga/

Hi @rowankeltizar5961 - Is the grounding plug still intact on your BackVac? There can be a large amount of static generated when vacuuming up wood dust (think rain drops bouncing around in a thunderhead). Will definitely help if your grounding plug is still there; given that the receptacle that you're plugged into must be properly grounded as well. Otherwise, you become the ground and will tend to get zapped (think running across carpet with your socks on and touching the light switch - at least in a dry area like Denver, CO, that can also give you quite the zap). Hope that helps!

Hi @mikeimel5666 - Yes, you have to apply a waterborne sealer over Chroma as it is not a sealer in itself. So, a typical application for us would be: Chroma Coloration, 1 coat IntenseSeal, 2 coats of Traffic HD. Even though most solvent-based stains also serve as a sealer, our typical application with Bona DriFast Stain would still be: DriFast Stain, 1 coat IntenseSeal (to provide better build and to "pop" the color), 2 coats of Traffic HD. Hope that helps!

Hi @kevinkirby4500 - Good question, Kevin. Applying sealers and finishes with a roller is ideal on any type of floor that has a multi-directional pattern, as the roller lays the finish straight down instead of pulling through it like a T-bar (which is why you can get streaks from T-bar on floors like this as you can't avoid pulling cross grain). So, we would treat a herringbone floor just like a regular strip floor and apply down the longest run of the room - but typically working the room the full width of that room when rolling, instead of working rows like you would with a t-bar; which sometimes is easier if you've got two people rolling side-by-side, each rolling 1/2 the width of the room. If working the shorter run of the room works better in some situations, then that's fine too; as, again, with the roller it doesn't matter which direction you go because it will not leave streaks. Hope that helps! If you have any further questions, please see some of our other demo videos on roller technique. Cheers!

@BonaProfessional Yes, it helped a lot.Thanks for getting back to me so fast .

Hi @rowankeltizar5961 - Really appreciate you letting us know! Easy accessibility is one reason that we put all these out there, and to provide Bona Best Practices right from the horse's mouth. Becoming a hardwood flooring craftsman is a very gratifying career! Glad we're able to help you down that road!

Hi @rowankeltizar5961 - We usually use the Bona Portable DCS 2.0 vacuum in conjunction with the Power Drive, but the Bona DCS 50 (a recent addition to our line-up) also works well. The DCS 2.0 is a powerful, two motor, system that combines a Bona exclusive two-step cyclonic intake system with two hospital-grade HEPA filters, and a perfect blend of 92" of water-lift (suction) at 235 CFM (volume). It also has a convenient Longo-Pac bag system that helps keep the job site dust free when changing bags inside. Here's a link to our dust containment vacuum line-up: www.bona.com/en-us/products/professional/machines/dust-containment/ Hope that helps!

Hi @samuelrobertson8354 - While we haven't officially tested Bona Red Out on CVG Cedar (too soft for flooring), it should work the same on any red/pink toned wood specie. Take a small board or section and do a test area to see if the results meet your needs.

Hi @CaptBill69 - First, you're not going to want to use a sealer for recoating (unless you're actually sanding it down to bare wood). While there is typcially a 1-year shelf life listed on all our sealer/finish products, many of them are stable for a longer period of time (kinda of like the "best by" on a lot of food/drink products). The biggest drawback with age is that the leveling, flow, and defoaming package might start to degrade, increasing the chances of having a lot of bubbles in the floor, etc. Best way to check is to shake up the product in question, then let it sit for 10 minutes with the cap loosened. Take a peek inside to see if it's still just a mass of bubbles. If yes, then no good. If just some minor foam sitting on the top, then should be good to go.

@@BonaProfessional thanks for info for evaluation of aged sealer product. Re recoating my 7 year old Bona Traffic sealed hardwood floor: There are other Bona Professionals that say YES to recoat without sanding job to wood again (with how to videos). ... using Bona Prep product, and 320 grit abrasive pad, possibly followed by 240 grit sandpaper (on an orbital sander / polisher type machine) ... So I disagree, and am planning to recoat wo Sanding to wood

Hi @girlgeniusll - Pet stains react with and concentrate the tannic acid in the wood flooring. The only surefire way to ensure that pet stains are gone is to remove and replace the effected boards. It may look like the stain is neutralized with certain treatments, but they most always come back after the stain, sealer, and finish are applied because they can't penetrate as deeply as the pet urine. Red oak in particular is very porous (thus why you can't make wine and whiskey barrels out of red oak, only white), so pet urine will often penetrate the full thickness of the boards - and or because it's so thin in viscosity, urine will also seep down board seams, end joints and splits in the board, etc. leaving the heaviest stains on the bottom of the boards which will tend to work their way back to the surface in the presence of other thin viscosity carriers. You can try Red Out to further treat the pet stains in your floor, but all bets would be that they'll still re-appear, unless you're planning to stain with a dark stain which will help hide/mask the underlying pet stains, even if they do resurface. Hope that helps!

@@BonaProfessional Thank you so much for the explanation, I appreciate this so much, now I can move on and just replace those few boards that are the problem. Even though the stains are almost gone, I was unaware that the stains would work themselves back up,thx!

Hi @bricemurr - If you are running any process with the Power Drive plate attached, then you always run it in the upright position; otherwise, it will tend to jump around if the handle is lowered to waist level and run like a regular buffer. Likewise, if you've removed the Power Drive plate and are running the MultiDisc and or a regular 16" drive plate, then it runs like a regular buffer with the handle lowered to waist level. Hope that answers your question.

Hi @drworm7432 - Bona ClearSeal is not a 1-for-1 replacement for Bona ClassicSeal, but we would recommend the switch as it's a much better product to use in regard to ease of application and abradability. ClassicSeal will give you just a slightly washed out look (because it's not completely clear - very slightly opaque) while ClearSeal will give you a pure, clear look without affecting the look of the species one way or the other. Hope that helps!

Hi @omark7145 - Good question, so just be sure to specify that you want a 1" thick "buffing" pad and not an abrasive or scouring pad. A good reference would be a 3M 5100 series red pad. Hope that helps!

@@BonaProfessional it does thank you so much. Another question: if after the first application I notice a lot of brown spots i believe based off the video I can spot treat with step B via taping and then using a paintbrush over the brown/uneven colored boards. Can this be done even days later once the wood has dried? Or would I just need to do another full application of A and B?

@@omark7145 Yes, you could try and treat with an additional brush application of Step B, if you think they're missed spots. If you've got a lot of darker, reddish boards showing through, then it might be best to do a full application of Steps A/B again. Step B really works best when applied to Step A that is still damp (but not standing liquid). Good luck!

It’s just that it seems some boards are spotty with pools of brown left in some parts of the board and the rest lightened in our case specifically - might be something to do with the boards being old not sure

Glad it was helpful!

Hi @ryanrichards4636 - While a t-bar can be used successfully with most of the micro-bevel floors on the market, if you have a deeper, true V-groove bevel then we'd recommend that sealer and finish be applied with a roller, as the t-bar puddle will fill up the groove and the applicator won't pull up the excess. The roller is our preferred method anyhow, but definitely a plus for bevel-edge flooring. Hope that answers your question!

Hello @danielsauz5293 - Recuerde que este es un video de "capacitación", por lo que será más lento que nuestra velocidad de trabajo habitual. Además, el número de almohadillas utilizadas es el número de almohadillas necesarias. Ni más ni menos. Gracias por mirar.

Hi @Redru-on8or - Easier to show you than to explain in text here, but we'll give it a shot. The real key is that you want to avoid cross-grain pull marks. Depending on the direction of the herringbone or chevron, you might be better off to follow a 45-degree line in the floor, working segments in that manner, rather than straight down the longest run of the floor like usual. Anywhere you apply the Chroma product cross-grain, you should immediately feather those edges with a cut-in pad or brush. Otherwise, the process remains pretty much the same. Hope that gives you a pretty good mental picture of how we'd tackle a patterned floor with Bona Chroma.

Hi @Redru-on8or - No, Bona Chroma is only a coloration system and will not seal/prime the floor. Thus a coat of waterborne sealer must be applied over the top. The potential reaction with high tannin woods will remain the same as with any other full waterborne system, so know what your end result will look like prior to completing the entire floor. All Bona waterborne sealers can be used over Chroma, except for ClassicSeal. Hope that helps answer your questions!

Welcome aboard!

And if your ratios are off and the stain, sealer, and finish fail over your homemade brew, then please call @TryDiy to cover your sand & refinish costs. It's not that easy when it comes to the sweet art of chemistry and R&D. Good Luck!